I'm not sure what I can add, because my sharpening technique it simple -- don't do any of it LR, export from LR, and do one step USM at 300%/.8/2.
(I could never understand the logic of doing capture sharpening in CS3, and then, a few minutes later, doing a second step of output sharpening. I posted that question with Tim Grey and DDQ, and he agreed that one step sharpening is as good as the two step process.)
Anyway, my purpose here is not to debate the merits of one step versus two step sharpening. I am happy to use the two step approach in LR. And avoid exporting to CS3.
My question is why I can't get sharp results in LR using the LR two step approach, as compared with using USM in a single step, with settings of 300%/.8/2. For a 22x32 enlargement.
I assume it is because I am not using high enough capture settings in LR. So I wondering how the numbers translate -- for a sharp landscape, to be printed in 16x20 or 22x32, what capture sharpening in LR should be used? When those settings are combined with the correct setting for output sharpening in LR, will that result in the same level of sharpening as I obtain in CS3 with USM in one step?
Thanks for the tip on noise reduction. I will give it a try.
I think you missunderstand the purpose of multi-step sharpening (It is not
just to try and achieve 'better on screen' sharpness, or rather that is the first step - not the second.)You also definately seem to have missed the concept of how to use sharpening in Lightroom.
Multi-step sharpening is a process whereby sharpening is applied for capture and then for a specific output. Example: I import my .CR2 Canon 1DSMK3 RAW file into lightroom and apply sharpening in the develop module so that it looks good at 100% on screen. That is capture sharpening - beginning to end. End of step 1.
The capture sharpening done in Lightroom is really just to remove the inherent softness introduced by the cameras anti alias filter. It is not sharpening for a specific output - wether it be print, jpeg whatever [thats step 2]. It isnt even creative sharpening - which you can do as a 1.5 step using the new local adjustment brushes in Lightroom - very cool!
Now - If I want to make a print, I need to apply the second round of sharpening specifically for the print and specifically for the paper matt or glossy - optimal print sharpening is not going to look good on screen, but will in print.
If you are doing one round of sharpening in CS3 with USM and as you say and using that for print and getting good prints then I will wager my 1DSMK3 that your on screen image is viciously over sharpened. It has to be if you are getting good properly sharpened prints. This is ok if all you want to do with that file is make a print. But it makes a lot more sense to use the multi-step method and create a properly capture sharpened file that can then be output to both print and web in the future. All it needs is the right output sharpening post the capture sharpening.
The two step sharpening process is an absolute MUST - it gives a file that is properly capture sharpened, and can then be sharpened for whatever output is required.
As to what setting to use in LR for 1DSMK3 files - I shoot every day with my 1DSMK3 and feel I have the capture sharpening totally nailed in Lightroom. Now.. it IS image dependant - so these settings should be considered as a basis or starting point only. Your mileage may vary. Also, I am usually a little light handed with my capture sharpening as I hate the artifacts created by over use.
I find for Landscapes in LR I use amount 60, Radius 1, and Detail 40 for 1DSMK3 files. That is pretty much my starting point for capture sharpening and tweak from there. Add masking as/if required.
Then Ill do a round of output sharpening depending on wether I am going to print / web etc.
Edit - I find low ISO 1DSMK3 files need NO noise reduction other than lightroom's default of 25.