California Local: Joyce Goldstein files a must-read column about the importance of teaching young cooks about culinary tradition, featuring cameos from Mourad Lahlou and David Kinch. The conversation started when a cooking school student at the Culinary Institute of America had no problem finding xanthan gum or using the sous vide machine, but couldn’t identify dates or figs.
Novice cooks don’t realize that these chefs got where they are not because of a desire to be cool or a gig on TV, but because they did their homework to expand their culinary horizons, which in turn allowed them to focus their talents and develop their own points of view.
I suggest that all culinary schools take their students on a tasting trip through their pantries, walk-ins and larders so that the students know what they have to work with before they approach the stoves and latest machines.
- Seasonal Cook: Herring! The fish has returned to the Bay and accordingly, is showing up on local restaurants’ menus in full force this season. Chefs at places like Oenotri, Bar Tartine, Rich Table and Duende are embracing herring, and diners are following suit. If you want to pickle herring at home, here’s a recipe, plus an appetizer from Duende (above) and a guide to finding herring around the Bay.
- Seasonal Cook: Sure, everyone loves the produce of spring and summer, but Amanda Gold explores the joys of winter salads: bunches of kale, heads of curly escarole and tight bulbs of endive offer textural alternatives to the more common spring mix or chopped romaine. Of course, recipes are included.
- The Review: Bravas, Healdsburg.
- South to North: Everyone likes churros, right? They’re pretty easy to make at home as well.
- The Chronicle Recommends: American Rhones, whose time is coming.
- The Cocktailian: Wherein the great Gary Regan uncovers the mystery of the Fliftonian Cocktail, also known as the Cliftonian, following almost 90 years of intrigue.
- Taster’s Choice: Orange juice, just thing for the height of flu season.
- The Cheese Course: Meet Pecorino di Filiano, a more mellow and approachable pecorino, unlike the aggressive or salty pecorinos from Southern Italy.
- What’s New: B. Patisserie, San Francisco.
- What’s New: Stock in Trade, San Francisco.
- What’s New: Still more openings.