To appreciate this splendidly peaceful spot, you'll need to climb a long flight of steps. For your pains, you'll get a view into the Crypta Neapolitana, a first-century AD road tunnel (now closed). Stories abound of the atrocious conditions in this primitive borehole, as cart-drivers fought to control their vehicles in the choking dust. (Conditions in the modern tunnel beneath it aren't much better.) At the top of the stairs stands what is controversially known as Virgil's Tomb, looking like a large dovecote. Although Virgil lived in Naples, he died in Brindisi; whether he was brought back here for burial is a question that has spawned no end of polemical volumes. The inscription on the tomb translates as 'Mantua bore me, Calabria took me, Naples holds me'.