Question: How can I be sure I've used the correct amount of Epiglass base and hardener?
Answer: Only use the specially calibrated dispensing pumps available from Interlux - don't use other manufacturer's dispensing aids as they may be calibrated to dispense a different mix ratio.
Question: How do I decide which Epiglass hardener best suits my needs?
Answer: Ensure that the hardener you choose is best suited to the climatic conditions. For warm environments select a slow hardener, in cooler climates make sure you use a faster hardener.
Question: I'm planning to do a number of jobs for which I have been recommended the use of an epoxy resin system. How do I know what products I need for each job and what ratios they need to be mixed in?
Answer: Epiglass Epoxy Resin is an extremely versatile system of resin, hardeners and additives designed to do many jobs, including sealing, priming, laminating, sheathing, filling, fairing, filleting and bonding.
Question: How important is the mix ratio when mixing epoxies?
Answer: Two pack products have been specifically developed to cure at a certain rate based on the correct chemistry. It is recommended when mixing two component products that the correct mixing ratio is adhered to (Epiglass Resin and Hardener is always mixed in a 4:1 ratio), as insufficient or additional hardener will result in an incorrectly cured product, which will affect the longevity of the product.
Question: When mixing Epiglass base and hardener the mix started to bubble, smoke and within a minute I couldn't use it. How do I avoid this?
Answer: Re-evaluate the hardener you are using - is it suitable for the climatic conditions? You are probably using a fast hardener in a warm room, by using a slower hardener, mixing smaller quantities or working in a cooler environment you can prolong the pot life.
Question: How can I tell the difference between amine blush and uncured resin?
Answer: Due to the chemical make-up of HT9000, an amine blush may be seen after curing, which many people often mistake as uncured resin. To tell the difference between amine blush and uncured resin check the cure after a day or so with a fingernail. It should be difficult and/or impossible to dent. Amine blush can be removed with fresh water, or water with a drop of detergent added. Sand the surface, and then continue with the system.
Question: Can you mix different types of epoxy hardeners?
Answer: People often run out of hardener and ask if they can use another type of hardener. This is not recommended. The exception would be when mixing Epiglass HT9000 system: the Fast, Slow and Standard hardeners are fully compatible.
Question: How long do epoxies really take to cure?
Answer: Room temperature cured epoxies can take up to a month to fully cure. Even at this point they may not be fully cured due to the presence of low levels of both epoxy and amine materials still not cross-linked. Heat curing will advance the cure to the best that can be achieved, and typically 16 hours at 40 Deg. C is reputed to cure epoxies to the maximum level that they would be expected to cure at room temperature.
Post curing will also even out the cure of various areas cured at different times of the year. Post curing at higher temperatures may or may not improve the actual cure of room temperature cured epoxies depending on their exact formulations, but will usually help to make the epoxy somewhat tougher as usually its degree of stiffness is decreased slightly as more heat is used to cross link it.
Question: How do I avoid a "soft cure" of my Epiglass mix?
Answer: Insufficient curing agent will usually slow the epoxy reaction down and lead to softer cures, which never really harden up. A slight excess of between 5 and 15% may not be obvious as the epoxy may cure hard and firm. Too much hardener however, may lead to softer cures, as the excess hardener becomes in effect a plasticizer for the cured mass. Avoid this by using the correct mix ratios of base to curing agent (4:1 by volume).
Question:Could Epiglass cause yellowing in my topcoat?
Answer: Not if used correctly, with the correct amount of base to hardener. However, addition of excess hardener could lead to this problem. Increased moisture and solvent sensitivity can lead to blistering of paint films and possible yellowing of topcoats as the excess curing agent permeates out of the coating. Once on the surface they will yellow or discolor in the sunlight. This is avoided by using the correct mix ratios.
Question: Can I use Epiglass with teak, or other oily woods?
Answer: Yes, as long as the surface is thoroughly cleaned and de-greased, and application occurs as soon as possible after de-greasing.
Question: Can I add a tint to Epiglass?
Answer: Universal type tinters are formulated for use in both solvent and water-based products, and contain a type of solvent that will act as a plasticizer, heavily retard the cure and may stay trapped in the film. As this may lead to soft cures, it is not advisable to add tints to Epiglass.
Question: Why should I use Epiglass Epoxy Resin over West System?
Answer: Epiglass, has a unique and easy to use formula offers the following features:
- Low odor - for improved working conditions
- Improved workability - to adapt to varying environments
- Low viscosity - for ease of mixing and maximum substrate penetration
Epiglass Resin (HT900) and Hardeners (HT9001, HT9002, and HT9003) are always mixed in a 4:1 ratio - regardless of hardener speed (Standard, Fast, or Slow)! No need to remember different ratios and no risk of confusion that could easily result in a sub-standard bond strength.
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