According to Osmoz, there are eight major families: Chypre, Citrus, Floral and Oriental (feminine), and Aromatic, Citrus, Oriental and Woody (masculine). Each one of those olfactive families is then split into several subfamilies.
Chypre â€“ Based on a woody, mossy, floral accord, which can include leathery or fruity notes as well. Chypre perfumes have a rich and lingering scent. Chypre by Coty enjoyed such success in 1917 that â€śchypreâ€ť is now a generic name for a whole category of classic perfumes. The compositions are based on oakmoss, ciste-labdanun, patchouli and bergamot accords. The richness of chypre notes mixes wonderfully with fruity or floral notes. This family is made up of distinguished, instantly recognizable fragrances.
Subgroups under this family are Floral and Fruity:
Floral â€“ floral notes such as lily of the valley, rose or jasmine are added to the chypre structure. Examples include: Badgley Mischka, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Givenchy Amariage Mariage, Chanel Chance and Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious
Fruity â€“ The chypre accord is enriched and embellished with fruity notes such as peach, mirabelle plum and exotic fruit. Examples include: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Guerlain Mitsouko, and Dior Miss Dior Cherie.
Citrus â€“ Each perfume in this family is primarily composed of citrus scents such as bergamot, lemon, orange, tangerine and grapefruit, to which other orange-tree elements (orange blossoms, petit grain or neroli oil) have been added. Floral or even chypre accords are sometimes present as well. These perfumes are characterized by their freshness and lightness including the first â€śEaux de Cologneâ€ť.
The one subgroup under this family is Aromatic.
Aromatic â€“ The citrus accord is enhanced by the addition of aromatic notes, such as thyme, rosemary, tarragon or mint. Examples include: Calvin Klein CK One, Rochas Eau de Rochas, and Lancome O de Lancome.
Floral â€“ This family is composed of a large variety of creations ranging from sumptuous bouquet arrangements to â€śsoli floraâ€™ compositions. Perfumers can let their creativity run wild, enriching florals with green, aldehydic, fruity or spicy hints. With its natural scent, the floral note is one of the most widely used in womenâ€™s perfumes.
Subgroups under this family are Aldehyde, Aquatic, Carnation, Fruity, Green, Jasmine, Muguet, Orange Tuberose, Rose Violet and Woody Musk:
Aldehyde â€“ Animal, powdery or slightly woody notes often enhance the floral bouquet. The top note is a marriage of aldehydes and hesperidia. This sub-family came into existence with the creation of Chanel No. 5, the first floral-aldehydic perfume with an unusually high amount of aldehydes. Examples include: Chanel No. 5 and Estee Lauder White Linen.
Aquatic â€“ A traditional floral bouquet is enhanced with several marine notes during the evaporation process. Examples include: Aramis New West for Her, Davidoff Cool Water Woman, Issey Miyake Lâ€™Eau dâ€™Issey for Women, Davidoff Cool Water Game Woman, and Escada Into the Blue.
Carnation â€“ â€śThe poetâ€™s flowerâ€ť is also found in perfumery and plays a part in the development of rich and harmonious fragrances. Examples include: Calvin Klein Eternity for Women, Nina Ricci Lâ€™Air du Temps and Lancome Miracle.
Green â€“ Green notes can add a sharper freshness to the floral bouquet. Galbanum is a typical ingredient in this type of perfume as well as combinations that evoke freshly-cut grass. Examples include: Chanel No. 19, Ralph Lauren Lauren, and Estee Lauder Beautiful.
Fruity â€“ Since 1995, new fruity notes have blossomed in the world of perfumery. The floral body is easily identifiable, and the fruity notes are obvious. Among these are apricot, raspberry, lychee and apple. Examples include: Armani Acqua di Gio, Cacharel Amor Amor, Carolina Herrera 212, Clinique Happy, Armani Emporio Remix for Her, Cacharel Noa Perle, Cartier Delices, Dior Jâ€™Adore, Escada Pacific Paradise, Juicy Couture, Vera Wang Princess, Guerlain Insolence, and Nina Ricci Nina.
Jasmine â€“ Also know as â€śThe Flowerâ€ť, jasmine enhances the floral top notes. It helps give perfume a complex and refined structure. Examples include: Burberry London, Ferragamo F, Dior Pure Poison and Jean Patou Joy.
Muguet â€“ A floral bouquet whose keynote is lily of the valley, a timeless white flower which gives perfume a fresh note of springtime. Examples include: Cacharel Anais Anais and Estee Lauder Pleasures for Women.
Orange Tuberose â€“ Introduced in 1948 with Fracas de Piguet, this sub-family has kept all of its appeal. It includes original scents of a unique sensuality. Examples include: Armani Code for Her and Givenchy Amarige.
Rose Violet â€“ The key floral accord of this sub-family is rose and violet. This widely used flower duet was launched by Paris, the famous Yves Saint Laurent perfume. Examples include: Lancome Tresor and Yves Saint Laurent Paris.
Woody Musk â€“ Always based on a floral accord, this family includes fragrances with an additional woody and/or musky note, which gives a richer, more contemporary structure than that of a traditional floral perfume. Examples include: Aramis Always for Her, Calvin Klein CK Be, Jette Joop Jette, Lanvin Rumeur, Bulgari Blv, Donna Karan Gold, Kenzo Kenzo Amour, Lucky Brand Number 6 for Women, Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely and Stella McCartney Stella in Two Peony.
Oriental â€“ Also known as â€śamberâ€ť fragrances â€“ stand out because of their unique blend of warmth and sensuality. They draw their richness from heady substances like musk, vanilla and precious woods, often associated with exotic floral and spicy scents.
Subgroups under this family are: Floral, Spicy, Vanilla and Woody.
Floral â€“ Traditional Oriental base composed of sweet, powdery element, accompanies by an exotic floral note such as tiare flower or â€śspicyâ€ť flowers such as carnation. Examples include: Britney Spears In Control Curious, Dolce & Gabbana The One, Gaultier Jean-Paul Gaultier, Guerlain Lâ€™Heure Bleue, Calvin Klein Euphoria, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist, Givenchy Ange ou Demon, Guerlain Lâ€™Instant de Guerlain, Tom Ford Black Orchid, Van Cleef & Arpels First Love, Kenzo Flower by Kenzo, and Stella McCartney Stella In Two Amber.
Spicy â€“ Spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg join the Oriental accord to enhance the originality and character of these unmistakable perfumes. Examples include: Chanel Coco, Sonia Rykiel Belle en Rykiel, Estee Lauder Youth Dew and Yves Saint Laurent Opium.
Vanilla â€“ Vanilla and classical amber notes accentuate the original Oriental aroma. Examples include: Armani Emporio She, Chanel Allure, Guerlain Shalimar, Lolita Lempicka â€śLâ€ť, Ralph Lauren Ralph Hot, Calvin Klein Obsession, Dior Hypnotic Poison, Lancome Miracle Forever, and Thierry Mugler Angel.
Woody â€“ Warm and opulent notes like amber and sandalwood, or dry notes like cedar are added to the Oriental accord to further accentuate it. Examples include: Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Rouge, Lancome Hypnose, Thierry Mugler Alien, Guerlain Samsar and Molinard Habanita.
Aromatic â€“ Aromatic notes are mainly composed of sage, rosemary, thyme and lavender usually complemented with citrus and spicy notes. These compositionsâ€™ manly character makes them an all-time favorite in menâ€™s perfumery.
Subgroups under this family are Aquatic, Fougere, Fresh and Rustic.
Aquatic â€“ The compositions of this subfamily brighten up the basic aromatic accord with an ocean note. This modern family boasts many recent creations. Examples include: Armani Acqua Di Gio for Men, Davidoff Cool Water Game, Bulgari AQVA Pour Homme and Kenzo for Men.
Fougere â€“ Timeless aromatic notes blend with a traditional fougere accord characterized by lavender, woody, coumarin, geranium and oak moss notes. Examples include: Armani Emporio Remix for Him, Dolce & Gabbana Classique, Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir, Loewe Escenia Loewe, Azzaro Pour Homme, Faberge Brut Original, Hugo Boss BOSS Selection, and Lucky Brand 6 for Men.
Fresh â€“ Fresh notes such as white flowers or citrus notes are added to an aromatic bouquet characterized by an underlying woody note. Examples include: Calvin Klein Eternity for Men, Davidoff Cool Water, Liz Claiborne Curve for Men, Clinique Happy for Men, Estee Lauder Pleasures for Men, Tommy Hilfiger T.
Rustic â€“ The dominant aromatic accord is enhanced by the addition of rustic notes carrying scents of the countryside such as new-mown hay or grass. Examples include: Aramis New West for Men, Hugo Boss Hugo, Ralph Lauren Polo Sport, Calvin Klein Escape for Men and Kenneth Cole Reaction.
Citrus â€“ This family includes all perfumes mainly composed of citrus notes such as bergamot, lemon, orange, tangerine and grapefruit. These fragrances are characterized by their freshness and lightness. The first Eaux de Cologne belong to this category. The masculine character comes from the frequently strong presence of aromatic and spicy notes.
The one subgroup under this family is Aromatic.
Aromatic â€“ The hesperidium accord is enhanced by the addition of aromatic notes, such as thyme, rosemary or tarragon. Examples include: Armani Pour Homme, Dior Eau Sauvage, and Azzaro Chrome.
Oriental â€“ Refreshed by aromatic or citrus facets, Oriental compositions draw their richness and sophistication from precious substances such as amber, resin, tobacco, spices, exotic woods and animal notes.
Subgroups under this family are Fougere, Spicy and Woody.
Fougere â€“ These timeless Oriental fragrances emanate a traditional top note of fern scent composed of lavender, coumarin, and oak moss. Examples include: Gaultier Le Male, Joop Homme, Hugo Boss Boss in Motion and Prada Pour Homme.
Spicy â€“ A distinct spicy note livens up the amber accord with nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon or cardamom. Examples include: Armani Code, Cartier Must for men, Hugo Boss Hugo Dark Blue, Burberry London for Men, Hugo Boss Boss Soul and Yves Saint Laurent Body Kouros.
Woody â€“ Oriental accords composed of warm and rich notes such as vanilla, coumarin and labdanum ciste are emphasized by opulent woody notes like patchouli, sandalwood or vetiver. Examples include: Balenciaga Cristobal for Men, Calvin Klein Contradiction for Men, Cerruti 1991 Black, Davidoff Silver Shadow, Burberry Brit for Men, Calvin Klein Obsession for Men, Chanel Allure Homme, Guerlain Habit Rouge, Thierry Mugler A*Men and Viktor & Rolf Antidote.
Woody â€“ These perfumes with their woody middle note, are warm and opulent when based on sandalwood or patchouli,. Cedar and vetiver make them dryer. These warn, dry and elegant masculine accords often contain a dash of citrus or aromatic notes.
Subgroups under this family are Aquatic, Aromatic, Chypre, Floral Musk and Spicy.
Aquatic â€“ This composition if often harmonized with an aromatic woody accord, and ocean notes complement its structure. Examples include: Aramis Always for Him, Issey Miyake Lâ€™Eau dâ€™Issey for Men, Donna Karan Red Delicious Men.
Aromatic â€“ The woody accords form the core of these compositions and always start on an aromatic note such as thyme, rosemary or sage. Examples include: Azzaro Pure Vetiver, Cerruti 1881 Pour Homme, Kenneth Cole Black for Him, Lacoste Pour Homme, Calvin Klein Euphoria Men, Guerlain Vetiver, Lalique Encre Noire, Yves Saint Laurent Jazz and Ralph Lauren Safari for Men.
Chypre â€“ The addition of chypre notes such as oakmoss and labdanum ciste enhances the predominant woody accord. Examples include: Aramis and Ralph Lauren Polo.
Floral Musk â€“ This category is characterized by its predominant woody note, which can either be cedar, patchouli or sandalwood. The diverse floral top notes include violet and freesia. The lingering scent is mostly composed of musky notes. Examples include: Armani Emporio He, Bulgari Pour Homme Soir, Carolina Herrera 212 Men, Burberry Touch for Men, Chanel Egoiste Platinum, Dior Homme, Dior Fahrenheit, Paul Smith for Men, Yves Saint Laurent Lâ€™Homme.
Spicy â€“ A soft sandalwood fragrance warmed by bold spicy notes such as pepper, nutmeg, cloves or cinnamon. Examples include: Armani Mania, Cacharel Amor Pour Homme, Chanel Allure Homme Sport, Gucci Rush for Men, Bulgari Blv Pour Homme, Christian Lacroix Tumulte Pour Homme, Guerlain Lâ€™Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme, Hermes Terre dâ€™Hermes, Old Spice Original and Ralph Lauren Polo Double Black.
*from The Perfumed Court