Q--Last summer I bought a hibiscus planted in a 2-gallon can. Outdoors it bloomed nearly every day. Before frost, I brought it inside, and now nearly every leaf has fallen. The wood is bendable, however, and seems to be alive. How can I revive the plant?
A--Hibiscus needs tropical warmth and an abundance of strong sunlight to grow and bloom indoors. During a season when these conditions cannot be provided, it is best to keep the growing medium on the dry side and withhold fertilizer.
If possible, put your hibiscus where it receives direct sun at least half the day, such as in a window facing south. When light temperatures stay above 60 degrees, rising to 70 or more by day, more water can be applied.
At the approach of spring, begin fertilizing. At first, use a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20, but as leaf growth becomes active, switch to a blossom-booster formulation such as 15-30-15. If leaves that are otherwise healthy appear yellow-green between the veins, use an acid fertilizer such as MirAcid.
Indoor hibiscus often host tiny spidermites on the leaf undersides; shake a branch over a sheet of white paper and if any dark specks fall and begin to move, you will know that mites are present. Spray with insecticidal soap every five days.
Q--About a year ago I received a small hanging basket of the trailing African violet called Violet Trail. It had bloomed almost continuously in the east-facing window over my kitchen sink but now has bare stalks for several inches up from the soil and no signs of new buds. Does it need fertilizer or repotting?
A--Georgene Albrecht, a Pennsylvania indoor gardener who is unusually successful with trailing African violets, says late winter or spring is the ideal time to propagate and rejuvenate these normally prolific bloomers. She considers Violet Trail one of the best for basket culture. Here is her routine:
-- Make cuttings having at least three mature leaves. Remove bottom leaves and insert cutting in fine horticultural vermiculite. Moisten well with lukewarm water. Cover with glass or plastic to prevent wilting. Constant warmth, around 70 to 75 degrees, encourages rooting.
-- Plant five rooted cuttings in an 8- or 10-inch basket. Select a basic peat mix with vermiculite. Baccto and Pro-Mix are excellent. Add chunks of dampened, long-fibered sphagnum moss for water retention with good drainage. Top-dress with Osmocote 14-14-14 timed-release fertilizer pellets and finish with a layer of long-fibered sphagnum moss, letting it extend to cushion the edges.
-- Early pruning is essential for success with large trailers such as Violet Trail. When the cutting has four mature leaves, remove the growing tip. Branching will occur at each leaf axil. When these branches have three mature leaves, remove the tips.
A trailing violet planting made according to these directions will remain vigorous for a year with only occasional grooming to remove spent leaves and dead flower stalks. Maintain a temperature of 60 to 80 degrees. Keep soil constantly moist, using water within 8 degrees of the air temperature. In addition to the timed-release fertilizer pellets, fertilize once a month with an organic (seaweed concentrate or fish emulsion) or water-soluble fertilizer (Schultz-Instant, Peter`s 12-36-14, Ra-Pid-Gro or Plant Marvel).