Of all Japan's culinary oddities, oden rides high in the
least-appetizing-national-dish rankings. To most foreigners it means a collection of
smelly, lukewarm, soft, brown objects soaking in front of the cashier in your local
convenience store. But to most Japanese, oden is a hearty staple of fish paste, tofu and
vegetables all thrown together into a huge pot brimming with kelp stock. These days, far
from being the preserve of night stalls and conbini, many restaurants are
specializing in this newly trendy winter treat (see the Restaurant's section mini-review).
But what exactly is all that squidgy, soggy stuff? Here's a beginners' guide to the
delights of the oden pot. Maki Nibayashi
Tamago Egg. Hard boiled.
Tako Octopus leg on a stick.
Shirataki Shiratakimeans white waterfall because, apparently,
thats what it looks like. This is the noodley Tokyo variety of konnyaku,
unlike its square Kansai cousin.
Konnyaku Translated sometimes as elephants foot or devils
tongue, konnyaku is a gelatinous paste made from potato root and formed into
bricks; its 97% water and has zero calories-one of the best things to eat when
youre on a diet.
Ganmodoki These little brown balls are tofu mixed with crushed yamaimo and chopped
vegetables, and usually deep-fried. Most oden places make their own mixture so expect a
difference depending on the stall or restaurant.
Daikon First introduced to the oden pot by a famous writer in the Meiji period, furofuki
daikon (well boiled radish, usually eaten with miso) is a relatively new member of the
oden family. It is, however, one of the most popular ingredients because it absorbs the
soup and adds a certain extraordinary flavor. The best way to see if the oden stock
matches your taste is to try the daikon first; if you like it, sit down, order some sake
and feast on.
Fukuro Also called kinchaku, these fried tofu pouches stuffed with mochi or
vegetables were ingeniously created as a substitute for fish in places where there were no
fish to be caught. The stuffing varies from region to region.
Traditionally, satoimo (taro) was used in oden. After the war Japan found itself
with almost no food, so the Americans distributed potatoes (jyagaimo) and the
Japanese added them to the oden broth where they have been ever since.
Hanpen This dish was the brainwave of a chef named Hanpei (hence the name) in the Edo period
and is fish paste mixed with yamaimo (mountain potato). Its got a really
unique texture and is another one that absorbs the soup to make it tasty (without the soup
its really bland). Some regions mix in iwashi (sardines), so dont worry
if it looks gray.
Chikuwabu This funny-looking concoction is flour and salt molded into a chikuwa-like
tube, although, to be honest, it doesnt taste of much. Its mostly an East
Japan thing and Kansai people have never heard of it.
Tsumire Fish, egg, flour and salt, all made into a paste and rounded into balls.
Atsuage Deep-fried tofu cut into blocks or triangles.
Tofu has been in the oden family since the very beginning making it a bona-fide member. Yakidofu
(grilled tofu) is usually used so that it doesnt fall apart in the stew.
Satsumage Also called agekamaboko outside of Tokyo, this is moulded, deep fried, fish
Chikuwa This brown tube is made from fish paste, pasted onto a stick and grilled over a fire.
(One of my favorites.)