Orchids were the darlings of the Victorian era
growers. Over one hundred years ago,
crazed collectors could not get enough of these new, elegant, tropical
blooms. The large exotic blossoms of the
Cattleya orchid have been especially
prized through the years, as the orchid of choice for those special corsage
giving and receiving occasions.
These days, breeding has made the plants much
smaller and more windowsill friendly. This
selecting and hybridizing makes it possible for the modern day gardener to grow
orchids on windowsills. Orchids have
entered the mainstream of flower culture.
These alluring plants now grow as easily as African violets.
Most tropical orchids are epiphytes, air plants
that cling to trees in their steamy home ranges. Orchids only use trees for support. The orchids are not parasites, but derive
their nutrients from the rainwater, air, and debris that filter down through
the leafy branch-tops of their host trees in their natural habitat. Because of this growing pattern, they are grown
at home in tree bark specially formulated for orchids; not in soil.
Some cling to open wooden baskets or slabs of
bark. You might find some orchids for
sale growing in a peat-based media. Since
peat holds water, this can lead to overwatering by an amateur grower. Water needs to flow through the pot. Roots cannot stand to be kept wet. They rot.
So-called orchid bark is still the best medium for most orchids. Healthy orchid roots are bright white and
often climb out of the pot. This is
normal. If the whole plant starts to go
over the edge, then it's time to transplant to a larger pot.
The bark mix also degrades over time, creating a
problem with drainage. It breaks down
into soil-like compost, compacting and holding too much water. Most orchids need repotting every couple of
years; two to three years is the recommended length of time between potting.
Orchids also require a high humidity environment,
higher than found inside most homes. To
add moisture to the air, add a humidifier to the growing area. Or, you can mist the plants every day. You can also supply extra humidity by setting
the pots of orchids on gravel in plastic or glass saucers. Keep water in the gravel but below the level
of the pot bottom. Water should not
touch the pots. As the water evaporates
from below, it envelopes the orchids with the humidity these plants love.
Fertilization is important. There is very little nutrient value in
bark. A 20-20-20 water-soluble
fertilizer is adequate. Look for one especially
formulated for orchids, containing the micronutrients they need.
The rule of thumb is to feed weakly, weekly. They should be fed while they are growing,
which varies with the plant. A
timed-release fertilizer is not
recommended because orchids need to have a rest period. Withhold fertilizer when growth stops. Do let them rest.
Orchid plants benefit from a summer vacation
outdoors. They can be hung from tree
limbs. Putting them directly into
sunlight would severely burn the foliage.
The Cattleyas and Dendrobiums can move into filtered sun
as they acclimate to the outdoors. The Phalaenopses do just fine in more shade. Shade tolerance is one of the reasons they do
so well inside homes.
Don’t put orchids outdoors until the night
temperatures outside are above 50 degrees F.
They can take some temperatures a little lower than that, but that seems
to be the safest temperature.
If your garden is wildlife friendly, insect eating
birds will supply a never-ending insect patrol, searching through the bark,
often throwing it on the ground. Consequently,
you might need to add more bark when the plants move back indoors, but you can
do away with insecticides. In fact,
there are not many insects or diseases that strike orchids, another reason for
Move the orchids back inside when the nighttime
temperatures are dropping to fifty again.
Morning sunshine, humidity, and cool indoor temperatures are all that’s needed
to keep the plants happy and blooming in the windows indoors. Orchids enjoy temperature fluctuations
between daytime and nighttime. This
actually boosts the bloom.
In order to keep all of the flowers facing
forward, position them facing the window light until all of the buds open. If you turn the plant, then your buds will
turn back toward the light. You’ll have
some buds going to the left and some going to the right. You really want Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium
blossoms falling in rows and the other orchid flowers all facing forward. When the last bud opens, then it is safe to
turn or move the plant away from the light.
(commonly called a Moth Orchid) would be the orchid to take home first. They are so easy, they can even be purchased
in super markets and home improvement stores. Cattleyas,
the corsage orchids, are not too difficult to grow. The biggest difficulty is getting enough winter
sunlight so that they will set buds and bloom.
A blue Ascocendra,
‘Princess Misaka’ (a Vanda hybrid)
might have been the first blue orchid. It
hangs out in an open wooden basket with no potting medium at all. To water it, carry it to the sink once a
week, immerse it, and let it soak for twenty minutes.
Another unusual favorite is a Brassia, a spider orchid.
One called ‘Witch Doctor’ throws out long spikes with pale, spotted,
spidery shaped flowers along the stem. Oncidiums hold unusual small yellow and
brown flowers on wiry stems. The
commonly called Dancing Lady only needs to be seen to understand the name.
Many enthusiasts find they cannot stop with just
one plant. One hundred years ago, this
was called Orchid Mania. Today, orchids
offer a challenging, rewarding, engrossing grower hobby. Got an empty windowsill?
Orchids can be purchased by mail order from Carter
and Holmes orchids in Newberry, South Carolina: