Whether you live in a renovated Victorian or a modern raised ranch, one thing is certain: Maintenance never stops. Of course, you could hire the local handyman to make repairs and put his kids through college. Or, you can tackle problems when they appear—and before they get out of hand. To help out, we've assembled 14 shortcuts for household woes that start at the roof over your head and end at the floor under your feet. They're all quick and easy fixes—and they'll help you keep the pros at bay.
1. Roof Shingle Repair
Strong winds and fallen tree branches can crack or rip asphalt roof shingles. If you fix a damaged shingle tab before it tears off the roof, you won't have to replace the entire shingle. To make the repair, you need a tube of roofing cement and a piece of copper or aluminum flashing. Cut the flashing about 1 in. narrower than the ripped tab, and about 4 in. longer, so that it extends under the tabs on either side. Use a flat pry bar to carefully loosen the damaged tab and the tabs to the left and right. Next, apply two or three thick beads of roofing cement to the surface beneath the shingle. Slip the flashing underneath and apply more roofing cement on top of the flashing. Press the tab down to adhere the flashing to the roof.
2. Roof Runoff Remedy
The lower edge of a roof should extend beyond the fascia board by at least 3/4 in. That way, when rain runs down the roof it drains into the gutter. If the overhang falls short, water can drip behind the gutter, leading to rotted fascia, peeling paint and stained siding. To fix an overhang that's too short, buy some aluminum drip edge (aka drip-cap flashing). It's typically sold in 8-ft. lengths, and can be cut with tin snips or even poultry shears. Slide the wide, flat flange of the flashing under the first course of shingles and adjust it to extend over the gutter. Secure the drip edge with a few short roofing nails and seal each nailhead with a dollop of roofing cement.
3. Easy-Rinse Rain Gutters
No one likes to clean gutters. But you can make the job easier and safer (no ladder required) with a long spray wand made from a 1/2-in.-dia. x 10-ft.-long PVC pipe. Start by cutting two 6-in. lengths of pipe. Then, use PVC cement to join these short sections and two 90-degree elbows with what is now a 9-ft.-long pipe, forming a J-shaped hook. At the short end of the hook, glue on a solid endcap. Drill three 1/8-in.-dia. holes in the cap. Glue a threaded adapter onto the opposite end of the pipe and attach a garden hose.
Place the short end of the J-shaped hook inside the gutter, and turn on the hose. As you walk along the house, high-pressure streams of water will rinse the gutter clean.
4. Wood Shingle Switch
A typical wood-shingle house is covered with thousands of individual shingles. And over time, it's inevitable that a few will split or become damaged.
To replace a shingle, first use a chisel and hammer to split it into several narrow pieces, then yank them out with pliers. Slip a hacksaw blade under the shingle above, and cut through the nails that held the old shingle in place. Next, use a utility knife to trim a new shingle to match the width of the space. Slide the shingle in place and tap it to within 1 in. of its final position. Drive in two galvanized cedar shingle nails, at an upward angle, directly below the butt edge of the shingle above. Then, use a wood block and hammer to tap the new shingle up into place. As the shingle slides in place, it'll pull the nailheads up and behind the shingle above.
5. Fill-'er-Up Tub Trick
Most bathtubs are equipped with lever-action stoppers instead of old-fashioned plugs. The problem is, many stoppers don't form a watertight seal against the drain. Fortunately, the fix is easy. First, unscrew the round overflow plate from the end of the tub. Gently pull on the plate until the attached linkage assembly slips out from behind the tub. The linkage is composed of several metal pieces, including a threaded rod. Turn the rod two or three revolutions to lengthen the entire linkage assembly. Replace the linkage and screw the overflow plate to the tub wall. Raise the control lever on the overflow plate and turn on the water. Check to see if the water remains in the tub. If it's still draining out, remove the overflow plate and lengthen the linkage a bit more.
6. Set Your Doors Free
If you have a door that binds at one corner, try this fix. Close the door and inspect the clearance along the sides and top to see if it's misaligned in the frame. If so, install a thin cardboard shim or plastic playing card under one of the hinge leaves to adjust the alignment. If necessary, add a second or third shim until the door swings freely.
7. Floppy Backsplash Fix
Many kitchen backsplashes aren't nailed or screwed to the countertop, but glued to the wall. In time, they can pull free, exposing the wall behind the counter to water damage. To reattach a loose backsplash, first use a putty knife to scrape off old glue. Apply two beads of construction adhesive to the rear of the backsplash, and a bead of clear silicone sealant along its bottom edge. Set the backsplash in position and press it against the wall and counter. To hold the backsplash while the adhesive cures, wedge 1 x 2 strips diagonally between the top edge of the backsplash and the underside of the upper kitchen wall cabinet.
8. Gaining an Edge
Here's a quick trick for gluing table or counter edging back in place. Apply glue to the mating surfaces and tighten a C-clamp at the damaged area. Use pieces of wood under the clamp's jaws to prevent marring the surface. Then, insert two tapered wood shims from opposite directions between the clamp and the edging. Tap in the shims to hold the edge in place while the glue dries.
9. Shower Stabilizer
It's not unusual for a shower head to become loose. This typically occurs when the metal strap securing the water-supply pipe pulls free. Here's how to remedy the situation without ripping open the wall. First, pull the round trim ring away from the wall. Next, inject foam sealant into the cavity around the pipe. This stuff expands, so apply it sparingly. Push the trim ring back in place and hold it for a minute or two to contain the foam sealant. The sealant will eventually harden, effectively locking the shower head in position.
10. Cure for Recurring Cracks
Hairline wall cracks that reappear, even after repeated spackling and painting, can be fixed for good. First, widen the crack slightly (1) by scraping it with the pointed end of a can opener. Remove all dust (2) and cover the crack with 2-in.-wide adhesive-backed fiberglass mesh drywall tape (3). Cut the tape, if necessary, to follow a zigzagging crack, but don't overlap the pieces. Use a 4-in. drywall knife to apply a thin coat of joint compound over the tape (4). The next day, sand lightly and follow with two wider, thinner coats of compound.
11. Picking on Loose Knobs
When a wooden knob comes loose from a door or drawer because the screwhole is stripped, remove the knob and stuff the screwhole with toothpicks and glue. Use a utility knife to trim the toothpicks flush. Then, replace the knob—you don't have to wait for the glue to dry—and carefully tighten the screw.
12. Faulty Dishwasher Tuneup
If your dishwasher seems to run perfectly yet leaves your dishes dirty, there may be a simple fix. Open the dishwasher and remove the lower tray to access the spray arms. Gently clean the holes at the ends of the arms with a steel skewer or an awl. Don't use a wooden or plastic instrument that might break and get stuck in a hole.
13. Lifting Damaged Floor Tile
When a vinyl floor tile becomes stained or damaged, you can easily remove it with a stiff-blade putty knife and an electric heat gun. Warm the tile until the adhesive softens (between 5 and 10 minutes). Start prying up the tile at a corner, and continue to apply heat above and below the tile until the adhesive releases. Scrape the subfloor clean, creating a smooth surface for a new tile.
14. Silencing Squeaky Wood Floors
Wood expands and contracts with changes in the seasons. And although this movement is slight, it can cause annoying squeaks to occur throughout the house, especially if you have hardwood floors. Here's an effective way to silence a squeak—if the space underneath the floor is accessible. First, locate the squeak from below by having someone walk across the floor. Once you've pinpointed the spot, spread glue on both sides of a thin wooden shim, and tap it into the space between the floor joist and plywood subfloor. Be careful not to drive the shim in too far; you don't want to raise the floor. The goal is to fill any voids that allow movement.
Home maintenance isn't restricted to repairs. Here's a checklist of items every homeowner should get to regularly—even if that squeaky floor never gets fixed.
1. Test your garage door opener monthly to ensure that it reverses when it hits an obstruction or when its sensor beam is interrupted.
2. Vacuum out the clothes dryer's exhaust duct at least once a year. If the duct is plastic, replace it. Rigid sheetmetal duct is best.
3. Replace furnace filters quarterly, or as recommended by the furnace manufacturer.
4. Test all GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets monthly. Press the test button and use a voltage tester to make sure the power goes off.
5. Clean leaves and debris from a central air conditioner seasonally.
6. Once a year, vacuum the refrigerator coils at the rear of the appliance.
7. Have the fireplace chimney inspected and cleaned annually.
8. Inspect window and door caulking and weatherstripping yearly.
9. Replace the batteries in smoke detectors yearly. And remember, even hard-wired smoke detectors have batteries that must be replaced.