one other thing to make sure of is the ring end gap position when you put it back together (and, for curiosity, when you take it apart. just to see how they were lined up). make sure the gaps aren't all in a row, one below the other, and if you have a 3 pc oil ring make sure to stagger the oil ring top and bottom rails as well so they don't line up. check the box that the rings come in-there is usually directions on gap placement and which side of the piston to place the gaps-thrust side or not. remember to check the gap at the top and the bottom of the bore. that will also give you an indication of bore taper as well. make sure to deglaze the cylinders before installing new rings. did you remove the ridge from the top of the bore when you did your prep work? when you originally did the engine bore check, what was the bore taper and piston clearance? within spec? what was the ring end gap for each ring? within spec? how did you place the ring end gaps? on assembly make sure to install the rings squarely so they don't bend out of their flat plane. ring expanders are cheap if you don't already have a set.a ring compressor is an important tool for assembly as well, so the rings don't get bent or a piston ring land gets damaged.
as far as gaskets, you should bite the bullet and use a new set. you don't want to have a leak and have to pull it apart again, or worse yet, have coolant leak into a cylinder and hydraulic lock the engine or leak into the oil and wash out a bearing too. cheap insurance.
if you haven't done so already, make sure to cover the ends of your con rod bolts (with a piece of hose if nothing else) when you drive that piston out. otherwise you risk the bolt marking your crankshaft on it's way past.
just some thoughts, hope it all works out for you.