Traditional Japanese clothing is still worn on special occasions such as weddings, birthdays, funerals, tea ceremonies and festivals. In the old days of Japan, people wore kimonos as their daily apparel. Through time, the traditional attire has seen many enhancements to adapt to the demands of the changing periods in Japan’s history.
The kimono is representative of Japan’s culture and heritage, and there are different types of kimono worn to complement every season and occasion. Looking at the history of this traditional clothing can also offer a view of the country’s vibrant historical periods, from feudal times to present-day Japan. It can also show how kimono-making has changed through the years.
Nara and Heian Periods
During the 700s, Japanese wore separate garments as their daily clothing. The attire consisted of upper and lower garments that were either skirts or trousers. This influence was influenced by Chinese clothing as the Nara period saw Chinese missionaries come to Japan to spread Buddhism and Confucianism.
It wasn’t until the Heian Period that clothes-making took a significant turn. The straight-line cutting method created what is now the style of kimono, which is more comfortable and practical to wear. Makers of the kimono cut the fabric into straight lines, sewing the pieces together without the need of the wearer’s body measurements. It also enabled people to wear them in layers during cold seasons. The Heian era saw the development of the basic components of the kimono, which is still seen in current styles. Attire for men and women became more distinguished and clothing for those who served in courts was also developed.
Kamakura and Muromachi Periods
As clothing technologies developed, more colors were integrated into kimono-making. When warrior clans ruled over Japan, men’s kimono were made to represent their allegiances similar to soldiers' uniforms. Colorful and frivolous kimono styles were worn for special events, but daily attire was constructed to conform to everyday activities. Samurai warriors wore battle-ready garments, while women opted to wear the kimono with smaller sleeves.
The Tokugawa era, also known as the Edo period, saw Japan divided into feudal states. Warriors wore kimonos that established their kinship to their feudal lord, with identifying colors and patterns. Kimono-making grew to include three parts, including the main robe, a sleeveless garment worn over it called kamishimo and a pair of split-skirt trousers called hakama. Making kimonos became more complex to meet the demands; as a result it developed into an art. Valuable kimono patterns and fabrics were treasured and kept as heirlooms.
Beginning at the end of the 1800s, Japanese met with Western influences. People of high stature wore suits and dresses, as reflective of the grand and frilly wardrobe pieces in the West at that time. The traditional kimono was then reserved for special occasions only, no longer part of daily clothing requirements. The styles created from this era had family crests sewn on the design, as a way of recognizing the wearer’s background.
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