IN SEASON: The Squash is nutritious and versatile; try baking it whole rather than cut in half
Look for: The bottle-shaped fruit will be creased along its length by green and orange variegated seams that highlight the creamy skin. A prickly stem may remain after harvest.
Take time to note the difference between Delicata and the sweeter Sugar Loaf cultivar, developed by researchers led by Dr. James Baggett at Oregon State University. The Beaver agronomy teams rule agriculture like its football team owns USC. Both Sugar Loaf and Delicata have green seams on a light background, but Delicata tends to be a bit longer (5 to 10 inches) and thinner (3 to 6 inches) than the shorter, squatter and tan-colored Sugar Loaf. On both, the colors should be vibrant since dullness is a mark of age.
You'll find the squash in bins at the market. The older the squash the lighter it is, so pick those heavy for their size. Examine the skin for soft spots. If the stem has been broken or removed at harvest the area may ooze liquid the color of brown sugar. This is OK as long as the squash seems fresh and there's no softening of the flesh.
When: Delicata is a prolific variety and tends to hold well in storage. That's why we see it earlier (September) and later (February) than other winter squash varieties.
To store: hold at 40 to 45 degrees for a week or two early in the season and for less time toward the end of the season. Delicata will tolerate at least four to five days at room temperature in case you want to use them for display before they become your supper.
Basic preparation: I tend to bake Delicata whole rather than cut it in half. Scrub off any surface grime. Randomly puncture the squash with a thin knife blade four to five times. Bake it on the middle rack of a 375-degree oven for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the same knife can easily pierce the flesh.
Remove squash from the oven and let it rest at least 10 minutes. During that time the skin will begin to separate from the flesh, and it will cool off enough to be able to handle it with a dish towel or pot holder. Slice off the stem end and then slice the squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and fibrous membranes (don't throw the seeds away -- toast under a broiler for three to five minutes for a tasty snack). Flip the squash cut-side down and pull off the skin.
To saute fresh squash, slice it into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Remove the seeds or cook them with the squash. When cooked this way, the seeds and skin will soften to a palatable consistency.
Pete Petersen is a Portland produce expert. Reach him at firstname.lastname@example.org.