Many homeowners want a creative or artistic-looking backsplash, and stones complement almost any decor. Large, irregular stones look interesting in a rustic home, and small, black marble stones contrast beautifully with a sleek, modern kitchen. After the wall is prepared, you can use nearly any stone and layout that you like. If a freeform design is not your style, practice arranging the stones on the countertop before you build the backsplash. After the backsplash is complete, you can finish the edges with wood trim molding or small, bar-style tiles.
Unroll a bolt of builder’s felt. Turn the felt sideways, with the length of the material running left to right.
Align the upper long edge of the felt with the underside of the upper cabinets and staple the top edge of the felt to the wall. Smooth the felt down the wall to the top of the counter, and staple the bottom edge to the wall with 1/2-inch staples.
Trim off excess felt along the top of the counter and at the ends of the wall with a utility knife.
Measure the height and length of the backsplash area where you fastened the felt to the wall.
Unroll a bundle of metal lath, which is a type of wire mesh. Measure and cut the lath with metal shears, matching the measurements of the backsplash area.
Place the lath against the wall, covering the builder’s felt. The lath should feel coarse when you run your hand down the mesh top to bottom, and smoother when you run your hand up the mesh. If it feels smoother when you run your hand down the wall, flip the lath over. Fasten the lath to the wall with 1 5/8-inch galvanized roofing nails, spacing the nails about 6 inches apart.
Mix a batch of stone or masonry veneer mortar in a bucket, following the directions on the mortar bag. Stone veneer mortar creates a stronger bond than traditional mortar.
Spread a 1/2-inch-thick layer of mortar on the metal lath with the flat edge of a 3/8-inch square-notched trowel. Wait approximately 1/2 hour to let the mortar become somewhat firm, then drag the long, notched edge of the trowel across the mortar to create grooves through the material. Like concrete, mortar will feel firm to the touch before it is cured, which allows you to create grooves that retain their shape as the mortar finishes drying.
Let the mortar set 24 hours, or at least overnight.
Mix a new batch of mortar, and spread a 1/2-inch-thick layer on the wall. Cover an area that is about 2 square feet.
Press stones into the mortar in any pattern that you like. If the stones are large, leave 1/4-inch or wider spaces between the stones. If the stones are small, use 1/4-inch or smaller spaces, but leave room for adding mortar between the stones. After the stones in the first 2-foot section of mortar are set, spread another 2-foot section of mortar on the wall beside the first, add more stones and continue across the wall in the same manner until the backsplash is complete. Mortar will begin to set immediately, so work as quickly as you can.
Mix another batch of mortar, and fill a grout bag halfway with the material. Cut off the tip of the bag with scissors.
Mist the backsplash with water from a spray bottle, and squeeze mortar from the bag into the spaces between stones.
Drag a wood craft stick across the mortar joints to smooth the material, but don’t dislodge the mortar.
Let the backsplash rest for about 10 minutes, then wipe the stones with a damp sponge.
Things You Will Need
- Builder’s felt
- Staple gun
- Staples, 1/2-inch
- Utility knife
- Measuring tape
- Metal lath
- Metal shears
- Galvanized roofing nails, 1 5/8-inch
- Stone veneer mortar
- Square-notched trowel, 3/8-inch
- Mortar bag
- Spray bottle
- Wood craft stick
- Work quickly after the second layer of mortar is applied, as it becomes too firm to press stones into the surface after about 15 minutes.
- If the stones are rough, consider sealing the front side, or the part that you will see in the backsplash, with penetrating tile sealer before you build the backsplash. Tile sealer makes the stones easier to clean if you accidentally overfill the mortar joints. Some sealers dry shiny, but there are also varieties that dry invisible with no sheen.
- If you're working with very large stones, you may need to shape some to fit the backsplash. You can tap the edges with a rock hammer to break off irregular chunks, or cut the stones with a wet saw and a diamond blade.
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