by Ross Burton
As Lancôme's national makeup artist for the east coast, Ross Burton has had a behind-the-scenes presence at many important fashion shows and photo shoots. He has had the pleasure of making up models and movie stars, including Lancôme spokeswoman Uma Thurman. Here Ross shares some great ideas for fixing the dry, flaky skin that often appears under acne.
In the morning:
STEP 1 Use an oil-free cleanser to keep the skin's surface clean. Follow with a toner to remove any makeup that remains on the skin. Pat dry, and follow with a light, hydrating moisturizer with a pump applicator (to prevent dipping your fingers into anything and transferring it to your face).
STEP 2 If you wear foundation, use an oil-free formula only in the areas where you need it.
STEP 3 The biggest mistake women make in concealing acne-prone skin is using too much product as a cover-up. Use a fine-bristle makeup brush to blend three warm shades of concealer to match your skin tone, and apply the concealer with a dotting movement instead of left to right paint strokes. The goal is to diminish the redness and discoloration caused by the pimple(s).
STEP 4 Set with transparent, oil-free, powder to match your skin tone.
During the day:
STEP 1 Always carry compact powder for touch-ups. Make sure the puff is not facing the makeup. Keep the plastic piece between the puff and the powder, or turn the puff upside down.
STEP 2 If the area around your pimple(s) becomes visibly dry during the day, apply a clear gel on top of your makeup to keep the area shine-free without overdrying it.
In the evening:
STEP 1 Cleanse and tone the skin following the recommended morning routine, and then exfoliate. Exfoliating is an important step because as a blemish dries, there is dry skin around the entire area. An exfoliant removes the excess dry skin. You can exfoliate the whole face or only the areas where you have congestion. For a very congested skin, exfoliate three times a week.
STEP 2 Use a deep-cleansing clay mask once a week after exfoliating. This helps maintain a clear complexion while slightly drying the skin, which is helpful if you feel a breakout coming on.
STEP 3 Moisturize.