banzai7 wrote:I just checked out the ratings on the Eagle, Gazelle, and Cyclone.
The Eagle and Cyclone look almost identical to each other. I can sort of see why the Eagle/Cyclone would be a good intro to higher speed distance drivers -- the HSS of -1 and the big LSS seems similar to some of the faster drivers on the market (e.g. Wraith). Question: why would these be good for a control driver with so much right-to-left play?
The Gazelle looks just like a Teebird only a touch slower. Question: what does the Gazelle help you learn that the Teebird doesn't?
I'm sorry, I was without computer for a while. I started something and then never really followed up.
It's been covered really well by everyone else, but the idea behind throwing a Gazelle, Eagle-X or Cyclone is that they're much easier to throw on lines other than straight (hyzer, anhyzer and all sorts of roll curves and 'S' curves). I like actually carrying two stable control drivers, both the Teebird and something workable like the discs everyone has been recommending. It is overlap, but it's worth it for how straight and long the Teebird is.
The -1 on HSS may seem like the discs are understsable, but that's more of how they break in rather than how they fly. The Cyclone, Gazelle and Eagle-X (other discs do this as well, it's just that those are the three easiest discs with which to line shape) all start off farily HSS even in D/DX. In some field work this weekend I threw a new Gazelle over 360' (measured on a football field) several times with zero turn. In the case of discs that have stabalizers (notches, beads, etc.) a low negative number in the HSS spot usually means the disc will hold a turn if needed, but will still be controlable. They'll respond well to intentional OAT (either roll over for more turn or roll under for less), and still fade the same as a clean throw.
Long story short, it sounds like you have a good plan going. I wouldn't always limit yourself to the Aviars and Rocs for field practice, though. It sounds like you're to the point where throwing some more nose angle sensitive discs in addition to your Rocs and Aviars will be benefitial. The training assignments Blake wrote that have week numbers associated with them will all be good to try.
In case you want some random thoughs on other questions you've posted...
I like most of my drivers to be in the 170-172g range, but I've had success with heavier Gazelles. I haven't liked heavier Teebirds nearly as much as the lighter ones.
Discs like the Gazelle, Teebird and Roc respond really well to wrist roll-under into headwinds as far as stability is concerned, but don't penetrate all that well. I pretty much count on them acting like one disc slot down if there's much more than a 10 mph headwind (e.g. a Roc in the wind will fly as far as an Aviar in the calm). The moderately overstable and very overstable driver slots are there for when you need driver type distance in a headwind because of how much better they penetrate into the wind. That's why you normally see faster discs recommended for those spots.