Ride the train ($5) one hour east of Prague to Kutná Hora, a thirteenth-century silver-mining town now known for its macabre historical attractions. Arrive in the suburb of Sedlec at Kutná Hora hl.n. (the main station), turn left onto Vitězná, then right onto Zamecka until you reach Kostnice Ossuary ($3), a chapel. The remains of nearly 40,000 victims of the fifteenth-century Hussite wars are held here, their bones arranged into bells and a shockingly intricate chandelier. Then catch the five-minute shuttle train ($1.50) to Kutná Hora Město (town station) or continue walking along Vítězná for about one and a half miles. Have lunch at Dačický, a medieval-themed restaurant and beer garden that serves locally brewed Kutná Hora Lager and traditional fare with a twist: wild-boar goulash with gingerbread dumplings is a specialty. Afterward, walk a half-mile to the Alchemy Museum, where a guide will lead you through a basement laboratory strewn with vials while discussing Bohemian mysticism ($2.50). Ask to go upstairs to the small Gothic oratory for scenic views of the town below. Then walk another half-mile west and don a miner’s helmet for a one-and-a-half-hour trek through the Hrádek museum’s medieval silver mine ($6). The narrow, 250-meter shaft sparkles with quartz, revealing Kutná Hora’s wealthy past. Finally, settle in next door for a pint of Gambrinus on Kometa’s outdoor patio (Barborská 29, 420 327515515), where you can gorge on traditional Czech dishes and people-watch along scenic Barborská Street.
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Published on Sep 2, 2010 as a web exclusive.