STRIKE FIRST AGAINST ALGAE
High temperatures, a sunny day,
and plenty of company—factors that make for a great pool party—also can
energize a group of nasty intruders: algae.
Without any apparent warning,
algae spores can turn sparkling pool water into a green murky mess. Pool
surfaces can develop a slippery coating, potentially dangerous as well as
unsightly. Powdery yellow-brown deposits of mustard algae may appear on the
walls or bottom of the vessel. Or, tar-like patches of black algae may appear on
stairs, in corners, or in other nooks where water circulation is problematic.
Why? Could have been the wind
and rain from the night before that dumped these opportunistic invaders into
the pool, or a pressure wash of the deck. Days of hot sun and a heavy bather
load might have warmed the water and depleted the sanitizer, making conditions
right for an algae bloom. Phosphates in the run-off from nearby landscaping may
have fueled their growth.
Whatever the reason, action is
needed. The plan of attack often involves the same chemicals that can prevent
visible signs of algae. Used proactively, those chemicals are termed
algaestats. The difference between an algaestat and an algaecide can be as
simple as the strength of the treatment chemical.
It’s much easier to be
proactive against algae, compared to fighting an outbreak. Keeping a
sufficiently high level of sanitizer like chlorine is one way to take
preventive action. However, should the chlorine level drop because a heavy
bather load creates a competing demand for disinfectant, bacteria can develop.
They will also compete for available sanitizer, allowing algae to gain the
Optimal levels of pH, total
alkalinity, and calcium hardness (the essentials of balanced water) help
prevent algae, too. Scale or corrosion, signs of water that’s not balanced,
creates rough surfaces that are conducive for algae attachment.
Taylor offers an array of test
kits for checking these water-quality parameters, plus the treatment chemicals
associated with a well-maintained pool or spa, such as chlorine, cyanuric acid
(chlorine stabilizer), bromine, biguanide, salt, and monopersulfate shock.
Additionally, Taylor makes kits
for testing quat and polyquat algaecides; orthophosphate; and low-level
copper—your “algae arsenal.”
Quaternary ammonium compounds, or “quats,”
destroy algae by disrupting their cellular membranes. Quats work particularly
well against green algae. They are the least expensive, best-selling pool
product. Because quats tend to foam, they’re unsuitable for spas.
K-1582 tests for higher levels
of quats and polyquats.
have a much longer molecular structure than quats, can affect all algae types
and are nonfoaming. They suffocate algae by adhering electrostatically to their
outer membrane, just as metal filings cling to a magnet.
Check quat and polyquat levels
with K-1582 when higher
algaecide concentrations are used, K‑9065 for
products also disrupt algae cell metabolism, making them an effective
algaecide. Chelated copper solutions prevent the copper from staining surfaces,
which can happen with copper salts. Use K‑1738 to help
maintain the appropriate copper concentration.
Copper/silver ionization systems produce trace levels of the two metals to kill algae.
Reportedly, copper works well against mustard algae and silver is potent
against black algae. Only the copper ion needs monitoring; when copper readings
are good, the silver level will be fine, too. Use K-1730.