Craig Lee/The Chronicle
An interesting side note that came up during last week’s story about Chardonnay involved the farming methods of Bob and Jim Varner, which I’d described as “effectively organic.” The Varners pointed out that though they easily could certify themselves, they have little interest in it — in part because they seem to share an increasing belief among vintners that the U.S. organic regulations allow far more tinkering in the vineyard than is necessary for a healthy site.
Even biodynamic processes aren’t necessarily the answer. “I think biodynamics is a temporary step. The next step is to set the natural conditions,” Bob says. “If it’s the right soil, it doesn’t need amendment, biodynamic or otherwise.” Those might be fightin’ words, viticulturally, but the Varners are two of the most low-key, thoughtful vintners I’ve met in a while, not farming-method bomb throwers. They do benefit from the soil on their previously unplanted site essentially having 40 years to amend itself, which few vintners get. But they’ve been doing it this way for almost three decades.
Which set me to thinking: How does that contrast with, say, the efforts of Randall Grahm to enact biodynamics on a large scale? What about non-wine corollaries that fit this template? Non-amended soil that gets no chemicals? That probably describes a lot of backyard gardens. (And my rather pathetic herb windowbox.)
Two other items from the notebook: