Question: We have a front bed with tall red and orange flowers that we have been told are cannas. When and how can they be moved?
Answer: Cannas are warm-season flowering plants. It is best to move them when they are dormant during the late winter or the early spring months before new growth begins from the underground rhizomes. Some gardeners like to dig and divide the plantings yearly to prevent crowding and to revitalize the beds.
If needed, cannas could be dug anytime, but a move during summer would affect plant growth and likely stop flowering. To minimize the shock during summer, make sure the soil is moist, and dig a large, intact clump to move. When transplanted, keep the soil moist and cut back the tops only if they decline.
PICKING A PINEAPPLE
Q: For the past two years, I have been growing a pineapple in a pot on my patio. The plant now has a large fruit. How do I tell when it's time to harvest?
A: Have no fears about picking an unripe fruit, because the pineapple tells you when it's time to harvest. Most fruits turn from a deep green to a yellow green or orange. You also get that familiar pineapple fragrance. Check the plants frequently at this time of the year; ripening occurs rapidly during the warmer weather.
SCALE ON THE SAGO
Q: My sago is starting to get that white covering again just like last year. Can you help me?
A: Cycad scale is back and nearly as bad as ever. Start the control by trimming off any yellow and severely affected fronds covered with the white flecking and insect clusters. Leave as much green foliage on the plant as possible to continue growth. Then begin a treatment program using an oil spray available from your garden center.
Apply the oil spray once a week for three weeks following label instructions. Be sure to treat both sides of the leaves, flower portions and the trunk. Then at week four wash the residual scale off with a strong stream of water. If the scale returns in the weeks or months ahead repeat the treatment.
WHAT'S UP WITH BANANAS?
Q: I have an 18-month-old banana tree that formed several hands of fruits. The stalk has continued to bloom, but the most recent bananas are small and fall off. What could be the cause?
A: Only the first flowers that open as part of the banana inflorescence produce the fruits we eat. These female blossoms develop without pollination and do not form seeds. Flowers that open later are male blooms with no potential for fruiting, and, as you noted, they do not grow bigger, and they drop off.
Cultural conditions can influence the number of female flowers produced on the inflorescence and the number that remain on the stalk. Most gardeners don't care for their banana plants until the flower stalk is noted, and it's too late to influence fruiting.
Bananas need good care from the time the plants are added to the landscape until harvest time. Keep the soil moist, and maintain a 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch over the soil. Also, feed the planting lightly March through October with a 16-4-8 or similar product. After a stalk of fruit is harvested, the old plant can be removed to make room for new shoots already forming at the base.
JOYS OF OWNING HOME
Q: We just moved to a new home and have been told we have webworms and stress affecting the St. Augustine grass. What should we do?
A: Such information could be depressing to a new homeowner, but relax; it's probably not as bad as it looks. First tackle the sod webworms, which chew leaf blades but seldom destroy a lawn. These caterpillar pests feed at night, making the turf look as if it has been mowed a little close.
Now, even if you are busy unpacking and overlook the infestation, the grass should recover with a little care. Or if you have extra time, you could obtain almost instant control of this pest with a lawn spray found at your local garden center.
Here is where the stress comes in. Often lawns are left without treatment before new owners move in. Lacking the regular attention, the turf may become a bit dry or even miss a feeding. Make sure the soil is moist between the rains, and fertilize. This should perk up the grass and eliminate the stressed look.
Finally, call your local University of Florida IFAS Extension office and request a free copy of the St. Augustine Care Calendar to guide you safely through the rest of the year.
NAVEL DISAPPOINTS . . . AGAIN
Q: Our navel tree is about 4 years old and last year produced loads of dry fruits. It's loaded again and dropping some fruits while others are splitting. It's our favorite fruit, and we give the tree good care. What else is needed?
A: Navels are frustrating producers, and it's even worse when you have a young tree. This probably won't be much consolation, but young trees are inconsistent. The good news is you have probably seen all the tricks the tree can offer including the dry fruits, split peels and fruit drop March through October.
Another problem with navels: Even though you have lots of fruits now, as navels mature, they often become sparse bearers. This means you may pick some big fruits but don't always count on the bumper crop. Continue to give your tree good care, and when it begins producing normal harvests in a few more years, the fruits should be just as good as you remember.