I have received many e-mails that tell me some of you are making your own patterns. This is wonderful news. I thought it might help if I shared some pattern making terms.
Is the process of matching two seams to establish grainline, seam length, and the amount of flare or fullness introduced.
Close and cup
Is a term used when trueing darts. One dartline is creased. The creased fold is matched to the opposite dartline and dart is pinned closed. Pattern is folded under at apex or dart point, and seamline crossing dart is trued.
A thin pattern making paper is placed over the draft or sections of the draft, and pinned to prevent shifting. Using proper tools, lines, cross marks are copied.
A short line which crosses a seamline, dartline, tuck line and so on. Used to indicate seam joining, matching points or stitching points.
Cut on inside of pencil line. This refers only to cutting finished outside lines on slopers and patterns to retain the original fit when copying and outlining.
Is a "V" shaped, stitched fold starting at a certain width at one end and tapering to a point at the other end. The area between the stitched lines is called underlay or pick up.
A small round mark used to denote a specific point on a sloper or pattern, often indicated with an awl.
Are cross marks transferred from seamline to edge of seam allowance, using a notcher. Notches are used on finished patterns.
The process of drawing a line along the edge of the sloper or draft without seam allowances.
The process of transferring pattern lines, using a tracing wheel, onto another sheet of paper.
The process of connecting all points on a pattern and checking for accuracy of measurements, dartlines, seamlines,cross marks, shape of seamlines and more.
I hope these help get you headed in the right direction. Send comments or questions to email@example.com.
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