|Take Off||IV 5|
|2 pitches. Pitch 1) 30m, start behind a rocky outcrop on the left hand side of number 5 gully, almost opposite the start of ledge route. Climb a short, right slanting slab to gain the actual right hand wall of moonlight gully buttress, climb straight up through iced up cracks and grooves to reach a chimney, climb this chimney with a spike belay above on the left hand wall (this can be sat behind to make a comfy belay position).
Pitch 2) climb the thinly iced up, broken, slabby wall directly above without much protection to gain the snow shelf above moonlight fully buttress and belay from there. Any route up the other buttress can then be followed to reach the summit. |
Richard Ashton and Peter McCallum 29/Dec/2011
Photo: Peter McCallum on the 2nd belay, sat behind the belay spike on the left wall of the chimney. © Rick Ashton