A laminate countertop contains a thin plastic laminate sheet glued to a base of particleboard or plywood. When installing a prefab countertop, measurements are taken of the cabinets, and a template is created that is used as a guide when the countertops are constructed. They then are delivered to the job site, where they are assembled and installed.
Check the cabinets for level, using a 4-foot level. If they are only slightly uneven, place shims between the countertop and the cabinet; if there's a sharp difference, place shims between the cabinet and the floor.
Place the corner sections of the countertop upside-down on a cloth-covered table or workbench with the two mitered (angled) ends facing each other. Use sawhorses to support the outer edges of the countertop sections, if needed.
Apply a thick bead of adhesive caulk to the mitered ends, and join the sections together.
Place I-bolts into the notches that are cut into the countertop sections along the mitered edges. Tighten the I-bolts partway. Place a framing square against the outer edge of the countertop to make sure the sections are aligned, and tighten the I-bolts. Wipe away any adhesive that seeps up through the joint with a damp rag.
Flip over the countertop with the help of an assistant or two. Move the countertop into position on top of the cabinets, pushing it tightly against the wall.
Place the sink template on top of the countertop in the location where the sink is being installed. Trace the template onto the countertop.
Place masking tape along the outer edges of the template lines to protect the surface of the countertop. Move the countertop back onto the workbench or table. Position the countertop so the area underneath the sink section is clear, but the countertop areas around it are supported.
Don safety goggles. Drill a hole into the countertop at each corner inside the taped area. Using a jigsaw, cut a hole in the countertop for the sink. Begin cutting each side at the pilot holes in the corner, and cut the countertop along the inside edge of the masking tape. When you reach the last side, prop up the section you're removing so it doesn't tear away from the rest of the countertop under its own weight. It can damage the countertop if it does tear away.
Move the countertop back into position on top of the cabinets. Check the countertop for level. Place shims on top of the corner braces inside the cabinets, if needed.
Drill pilot holes through the corner braces in the bottom cabinets and into the bottom of the countertop, going no deeper than two-thirds of the way into the countertop. Have an assistant press down on the cabinets. Connect the countertop to the cabinets with 1 1/4-inch wood screws.
Apply a thick, zig-zag bead of adhesive caulk to the wall just above the countertop, and a straight bead along the back edge of the countertop. Place the backsplash strips into place, firmly pushing them into the caulk on the countertop and the wall. Wipe away any caulk that seeps out, and allow it to set for the time specified on the packaging.
Apply a bead of clear silicone caulk along the joint between the top of the backsplash and the wall, and the bottom of the backsplash and the countertop.
Things You Will Need
- Level, 4-foot
- Cloth-covered table or workbench
- Adhesive caulk
- Framing square
- Damp rag
- Masking tape
- Safety goggles
- Wood screws, 1 1/4-inch
- Clear silicone caulk
- The minimum height opening between the finished floor and the bottom edge of the countertop for under-cabinet appliances is 34 1/2 inches.
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