My engine has been somewhat on life support.
3 years ago, I replaced the Cylinder heads during 4deg. weather. It unavoidably developed some very small leaks from the new exhaust manifold gaskets (yes they were installed with absolute precision, my friend and I made special care of this due to the temperature; everyone asks about this when I talk about the leak)
Everything was cleaned with special care, and even today, some of the parts still look new.
At this time, the vehicle had just hit 200,000 miles.
During that work, we made a lot of observations while we had the engine torn down to the block:
-Cylinders 1&5 looked reconditioned.
-Cylinders 2&6 looked like crap.
-3&4 looked as to be expected... somewhere in between.
We put special care in cleaning as much as we could in 4&6, making sure not to make any scratches or do any damage that could alter the performance of the moving parts (think: solvents, vacuums, and LOTS of rags and towels)
After assembly, compression was tested, and the cylinders performed just like they looked.
150-170 for 1&5
135-145 for 3&4
100-112 for 4&6
I made note after that to make plans to rebuild the piston rings (ALL of them, since that's how it's supposed to be done, none of this "2 at a time crap")
My engine never did get rid of it's clicking sound after the replacement of the heads, which left me really worried. I thought there was some valve lash on the old heads causing that sound =(
During that repair, I replaced the EGR, PCV, entire distributor, vacuum lines, and valve covers.
I only use Shell/Chevron gasoline, and only 89 octane or higher (you can't get lower than 89 in CA )
I've always used Castrol 5W30 Synthetic oil with K&N filters. I regularly used the Restore brand oil additive to preserve what compression I could. (this was only broken when I took the advice of Maher and used SeaFoam for the first time... and then failed my Smog test horribly )
During my last inspection, I replaced all of my spark plugs, my cap&rotor, and wires. I also retuned the van to sea level.
I seafoamed my oil 2 weeks ago during an oil change, and did the intake on sunday. All were done as per instructions on their website.
Not only did I not see a damn thing come out of my tailpipe during the treatment, but my oil consumption problem appears to have worsened.
That's ok, I'll talk to them about a refund, since it's guaranteed for at least that. (at least other stuff does nothing when it does nothing, instead of making the problem worse. This isn't the first time I've heard that seafoam is bad, though)
Here are my results from the Smog Test:
- Code: Select all
RPM HC(PPM) CO(PPM)
MEAS |MAX|AVE|MEAS| |MAX|AVE|MEAS|
650 120 30 270 1.0 0.10 0.58 FAIL
2498 180 20 22 1.0 0.10 0.06 PASS
EGR (Functional)... FAIL
Now, I know that since I just replaced the EGR valve, something isn't right. Also, after discussing this with others, they pointed out that my emissions at 2500 RPM from non-HCs would've been higher if my EGR was non-functional. the tech could've just looked at the valve and seen that it had just been replaced, the damn thing is still bright and shiny.
Something isn't right.
I'm curious if my electrical system could've caused this.
So, could a barely functioning alternator and a mid to low battery cause the ignition system to barely spark enough to burn everything at idle, but at 2500RPM be enough to burn everything?
That's my theory right now... it's cheaper than tearing in and replacing the piston rings. The rings don't explain why high RPM don't produce high HCs.
I want to know why my high RPM produce such spectacular results and my idle looks like crap.
Thank you for your time.