Do perms bring back bad memories of overly processed, frizzy hair from the '80s? Well, fear no more, perms are back with a softer side (think soft waves like Kate Middleton or Jessica Alba!). Here is what you need to know about "thio-free" perms and how they compare to traditional perms.
How does perming work?
Your hair is made of keratin (protein) which contain disulfide bonds that give hair its shape. Perms chemically break that bond and then reform the bond based on whatever shape the hair is wound into (usually a rod or curler). This is also the same process for making curly hair straight, but instead of wrapping hair around a roller, the hair is ironed straight. This process works but it is damaging. You're chemically changing the shape of your hair which requires some pretty heavy-duty chemicals.
Traditional perms vs. "thio-free" perms
Traditionally, the most commonly-used ingredient in perming is thioglycolic acid (often referred to as thio). Thio is actually a salt and is the reducing agent responsible for breaking the disulfide bonds in your hair. Thio works great but one of the main issues is that it has a very unpleasant odor (If you ever had a perm I'm sure you remember the bad smell!). Also, because of the very nature of perms, thio is damaging.
On the other hand, "thio-free" perms use an ingredient (amino acid) called cysteamine. Cysteamine also breaks down the disulfide bonds in your hair. This chemical doesn't have the strong odor often associated with thio but it isn't as effective in producing permanent waves as thio perms (which also means less damaging).
Does "thio-free" mean damage free?
Unfortunately, that is not the case. While cysteamine-based perms are less smelly and less damaging, that certainly doesn't mean no smell or no damage. This ingredient is still chemically changing your hair, which is a damaging process. Cysteamine doesn't work quite as well as thio which could be a good or bad thing depending on how you look at it! If you want a slightly looser wave that doesn't last as long as traditional perming then "thio-free" (or cysteamine) perms are worth a try.
Anything else I should know about perms?
One of the reasons perms from the '80s produced such tight, frizzy curls was because of the rods. The rods were often really small and skinny, which produced really tight curls. Now, perms (both traditional and thio-free) use much larger rods or rollers to produce a more natural-looking wave. Plus, there are more styling and conditioning products available now to help keep hair in tip-top condition and reduce the frizz. If you are seeking looser-looking waves you should consider perming, you will be pleasantly surprised!
Perms are now offering a more modern, natural wave (the days of frizzy curls are over!). Whether you choose traditional or "thio-free" perms, you are exposing your hair to a damaging process (and if your hair is damaged to begin with then any perming is a no-no). Thio-free perms will offer less damage and less odor but the results won't last as long as traditional perming. Whatever perm you choose, pretty waves may be a reality after all!
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