Lanvin F/W 2013
There was something for everyone at Lanvin this season. After a Spring collection that skewed heavily toward a slimmed-down, hard-edged rock aesthetic, Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz seemed to be testing the edges of their wheelhouse with their Fall production, an experiment that resulted in plentiful rewards. There was, most noticeably, the return of the rich jewel tones that made such an impact in many years past, as in Kristoffer Hasslevall’s forest-green jumper, or the rich burgundy of a loose overcoat. There were nods at the season’s Bauhaus trend in the graphic button-up shirts and subtle black-and-white (and black-and-black) tops. The clothes themselves took on a looser air as well, hanging freely from the body with room to spare, a refreshing change for a house that is sometimes best-known for its rigorous fits. There was a spare purity to the designs as well, as in Ben Allen’s stark turtleneck ensemble, or a series of light sheer shirts, or the swinging double-breasted overcoats that opened and closed the show. A few pieces popped in a discreet way with that signature Lanvin verve, like Andrew Westermann’s surprisingly subtle fur vest, or Isaac Ekblad’s cocoon coat. Lanvin has always been know for its luxe footwear, an entire wall in each store given to their variations on slip-ons and high-tops, and the house brought its whimsical touch this time around to what would be best described as running shoes, adding shots of eye-popping colors that enlivened and renewed an old bête noire. It was just more proof that in the hands of Ossendrijver and Elbaz, wonders are always many.
Text: Jonathan Shia
Photos: Dirk Alexander for models.com