Readers have asked for winter gardening tips. Here are some:
If any branches and twigs from smaller trees snap off in the wind or snow cleanly, cut off the damaged wood. If it's a side shoot or branch, make sure to cut on the outside of the branch collar. The collar is an area of packed cells right next to the trunk of the tree. Usually you can run your hand around this area and feel that it's a bit thicker than the branch. Cut on the outside (not tree side) of this area. The bundle of cells found in the collar will begin making bark to close over the wound left from the cutting.
If any smaller or young trees broke off near the top or any section of the main trunk it could be saved. Use a pruning saw (on smaller trees) or a chainsaw and cut off the damaged section. Cut on a diagonal so water will run off and not pool to prevent rot down through the tree. When trees snap off at the top, the new growth will be in multiples. Eventually you'll need to remove all but one or two of these multiple tops, but for a while you'll watch to see how the new growth looks before deciding which section to remove in the future.
Small trees uprooted during the wettest part of a storm can sometimes be dug back into the ground, staked for about six months for support and will continue to grow. Small trees with broken tops or branches still attached to the tree can sometimes be repaired. If you have any questions about trees call the Extension Office at 360-337-7157 and we'll provide a list of certified arborists who will come inspect your tree, offering advice.
Mature hydrangeas sometimes take a big hit in winter snow and wind. Usually the papery dead flowers add winter interest, but in wicked weather they can become an unflattering dark brown and sometimes hydrangea stems and branches become quite droopy. Do not cut down all the stems, unless you want your hydrangea to be bloomless next summer. Give yourself permission to cut off the flower heads though. If any stems are broken you could trim them at the spot where they've broken off, but leave the rest of the stems on the plant for winter protection. Then perform regular pruning in early spring.
This same advice applies to all woody landscape plants (especially hardy fuchsias). Sometimes a plant looks completely crisped and quite pathetically dead. Be patient, in spring and summer it often resurrects to become a lively healthy plant again. New growth often occurs from the base of plants so don't remove dead plants until late spring. Sadly some plants really do pass away during not so friendly weather, but wait until spring or summer to be sure. Leaving the damaged parts intact actually offers winter protection from future winter damage.
If you have outside plants in containers that don't receive the benefit of regular rainfall continue watering them, especially those under the eaves of houses. Every other week is a good rule of thumb. Remember to disconnect your garden hose from the faucet each time though. It's a good idea to group containerized plants together in one place. Place this grouping in a sheltered area where they still receive plenty of light but are away from wind and too much chill. Dried tree leaves, placed on the soil of containerized plants add protection. Fir twigs and small branches (with foliage intact) placed lightly over plants give protection too.
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