RIP James. It’s worthwhile reading through the bulletin for the day slowly;http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/2013/03/01/avalanche-advisory-for-friday-3-1-2013/
Take home points should be that human triggered was not “likely”, but “possible”.
I have NO idea what James’s understanding of snow stability is but in 10+ years of guiding and skiing in this area and traveling out west I have realized a few things;
1) New England (sometimes Eastern Canadian) ice climbers can have high levels of technical proficiency for ice climbing with little understanding of snow science/avalanche risk management. I.E. you can climb Grade 4+ ice but you don’t know the difference between storm slab and wind slab or P-hard slab and and 4F slab.
2) We think we are safest on the steeper ice, which is true... but what’s below and above must be travelled.
Only on Mount Washington do we see such a high percentage of ice climbers caught or killed in avalanches, and that is directly related to accessibility and variability.
But there is info out there to help make solid (or better) choices.
Disclaimer: I have no idea what James understanding of avy hazard was... all I know is deaths/incidents is UP.... probably because of more traffic in general... there is tons of untouched knowledge out there... equalizing a 2 screw anchor does not equal assessing snow stability... challenge yourself to learn about what you don’t know if you want to spend time in avy terrain... accept you might still fuck up... but invest in some training and practice, practice, practice...
In my courses I make it clear that there is no such thing as a 24 course that will make you safer.... you need to spend time in the terrain and practice to make “better” decisions... but a modern course will show you where your knowledge may be lacking... where to focus...
RIP James, from all accounts I have heard from people who knew you you were a pretty stand up awesome dude. I’m sorry Mother Nature took you so soon in your life. But I will not believe or condone it was a random unpredictable act of nature, and that future climbers can’t be respectful and analytical at the same time, and learn from this to help prevent similar loss of life.
Mis-interpretations of the oft-quoted Freedom of the Hills book do nothing to further understanding of what occurred here, and I am glad to see the active majority here agree.
Is the “mountain guilty”... jesus H-Christ... is there anyone in your world that would entertain your questions outside of NEClimbs?