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The reissued L’Eau Neuve opens with very brisk citrus top notes suggestive of both bergamot and grapefruit, dry herbs, and just a dab of gentle lavender. These are soon joined by what smells to me distinctly like civet (unlisted), sweet floral notes, and woods in a moderately animalic, citrus-and-woods heart accord that’s somewhere between Eau d’Hermès and Déclaration on one side and Eau Sauvage and Cristalle on the other. L’Eau Neuve is drier than all of these, save perhaps Déclaration, and comparatively quiet as well, which leaves it feeling both sophisticated and civilized, despite its animalic content.
As it dries down L’Eau Neuve’s citrus notes inevitably fade, and the composition grows more and more woody. The foundation consists of a luxuriously creamy sandalwood, moss, and lingering animalic note (civet). The final impression is of rich understatement and quiet elegance. It is, if you will, a softened, and ever so slightly “naughtier” take on the classic citrus chypre represented by Eau Sauvage and Cristalle – the former of which was a near-contemporary of the original L’Eau Neuve. I’d hold the current L’Eau Neuve as a fine example of gender neutrality in fragrance, equally easy to wear for men and women. With its discreet sillage and projection and its quiet poise, I can’t imagine a setting or situation where it would be objectionable. It would make a fine everyday scent, especially in warm weather, where its refreshing citrus notes would be most welcome.
13 June, 2014